It’s impossible to relay the foundational story of India’s fashion landscape without mentioning Anita Dongre to it. The designer, who founded her label as early as 1995, has helped shape the industry in more ways than one. She is known to seek inspiration from Rajasthan’s coruscating craft and cultural legacy to create wearable works of art for modern-day, well-heeled connoisseurs, brides and grooms. With her couture that comes with a conscience, she garnered not just an inedible classic-meets-cool design vocabulary, but also an unwavering patronage among tastemakers and trendsetters across the world. She is often touted as the “Queen of Prêt” and counted among the most powerful women in business.
Humble beginnings
Anita’s remarkable journey started with humble beginnings. Growing up in a traditional Sindhi family, the women in her family played stereotypical roles of wives and mothers. But watching mother and a talented tailor Pushpa Sawlani stitch clothes for her and her siblings during her childhood years, sparked Anita’s design bug. Anita went on to study fashion design at SNDT Women’s University in her hometown of Mumbai. “We were a large joint family of around 30-40 cousins, most of whom would get married by the age of 18-19. Because of our social conditioning, my parents were surprised that I wanted to go to college and take up a job. Neighbours used to mock my father that he couldn’t earn enough which is why his daughter was going for a job,” she said.
Geared with a degree and an inherent creative and entrepreneurial acumen, she made her foray into fashion. A small loan from her father and just two sewing machines is all she needed to craft affordable workwear for women. While her apparels got rejected by every store, she didn’t let the rejections dampen her spirit. She continued weaving stories of people, places and processes that translate traditional Indian crafts into a universal language. Three decades later, she’s still left with a long tale to tell.
Global domination
Anita’s incredible trajectory, across three decades, has culminated into five popular, successful brands including two high street labels—AND and Global Desi launched in 2007, eponymous couture label Anita Dongre launched in 2012, fine jewellery label Pinkcity launched in 2013 and prêt label Grassroot launched in 2015. Today, her retail footprint comprises almost 1,000 stores in over 100 cities. In 2013, the House of Anita Dongre got powered by US private equity firm General Atlantic with a $20 million investment, totalling roughly 23 per cent of the company. The deal also marked General Atlantic’s first Indian fashion investment, after also having invested in brands like Tory Burch. In 2017, Anita opened her first international store in Manhattan.
Craft chronicles
Since the get-go, Anita’s work has been underscored by her long-term commitment to preserving the country’s artisanal heritage and upholding artisan welfare. With her the tenure of work, the designer has empowered over 100 SEWA (Self Employed Women’s Association) artisans and employs thousands of people directly. Inspired by the length and breadth of the country, her collections feature intricate embroidery techniques like zardozi, aari, hand painting, gota patti and pitta work, rendered in native textiles and handlooms. Whether a lehenga for a destination wedding or a sherwani for a glamorous sangeet, her couture creations reinstate her ability to balance tradition and modernity.
A loyal and royal following
From millennial stars like Priyanka Chopra and Katrina Kaif to Gen Zs like Shanaya Kapoor and Khushi Kapoor, you’d be hard pressed to find a Bollywood A-lister who is not impressed by Anita Dongre’s creations. Be it an ornate lehenga, a fuss-free sari or a red carpet-worthy dress, a plethora of stars have worn her pieces for several personal and professional outings. The couturier has also been the first choice for several celebrity brides including Neha Dhupia, Kajal Aggarwal and Prajakta Koli.
Not limited to Bollywood’s swish set, Anita’s collections have also got a stamp of approval from international figures like Beyoncé, former secretary of state and first lady Hillary Clinton, Mindy Kayling, and Ivanka Trump. In 2016, after the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton wore one of her dresses during a royal tour of India, demand for the designer in the US exploded, crashing her website.
The Anita Dongre Signatures
Gota patti
Anita has consistently drawn from the heritage of Jaipur for her wedding wear. Gota patti, among others, has been a forte and a recurring craft in her collections. Once a domain of the royal family and members of the court, it is a centuries-old technique that’s become must-have in festive and bridal wardrobes. An intricate form of embroidery, gota patti typically involves adding gold or silver zari ribbons to an ensemble using the applique technique. It’s been championed by the ace designer, rendering it as floral and architectural motifs on everything, from classic lehengas to modern dresses. Her latest collection, Vaana is also laden with beautiful gota patti work.
Native textiles
Rich textiles like Bandhini and Banarasi along with a cacophony of printed fabrics have served as a bedrock to the designer’s wedding collections. Bandhej, popularly known as Bandhini, is the ancient craft of tie and dye from Bhuj that’s characterised by its dotted patterns that illustrate beautiful patterns of flora and fauna. A Bandhini lehenga or sari from the House easily takes somewhere between 6 to 8 months to make and holds thousands of finely hand-tied knots that are further hand-dyed.
Comfort first
From weightless saris that drape like a whisper to lehengas that flow with ease, every silhouette by Anita Dongre is created for comfort without compromising on style. The designer makes the most of breezy organza, delicate silks, and feather-light chiffon that promise effortless movement, ensuring brides can celebrate from day to night without feeling weighed down. Beyond the bridal trousseau, she offers versatile styles for every wedding occasion—from co-ord sets and structured jackets perfect for pre-wedding festivities to layered skirts and statement blouses that can be styled effortlessly for a modern take on traditional wear.
Lehengas with pockets
Effortless luxury signifies Anita Dongre’s signature style, who designs clothes for the aesthetical and practical inclines of the woman of today. To her, fashion must reflect a woman’s holistic persona—her deeply-rooted values and modern sensibilities. This led her to design lehengas with pockets. Thoughtfully designed with comfort and elegance in mind, her lehengas have emerged as the perfect choice for brides seeking traditional elegance and modern ease.
Eco-friendly and sustainable
Sustainability and eco-consciousness run in the brand’s DNA, from crafting its collections to the factory where every creation is brought to life. In 2013, her cruelty-free creations were recognised at the PETA Approved Vegan Fashion Awards. Two years later, the company’s headquarters moved to an ergonomically designed, eco-friendly building in Navi Mumbai.
Vegan accessories
With the launch of vegan accessories in 2023, Anita Dongre further cemented her credo to make fashion not just sustainable but also ethical. Replacing leather, her wide range of bags and belts are consciously crafted using a plant-based fabric that the brand has searched for years to find. Apart of being inspirational, the accessories are hyper functional—an approach that extends to all Anita Dongre offerings. “As companies, we need to be mindful of the pain and suffering that is created on helpless animals for the sake of fashion. With MIRUM®, we found a partner who creates this beautiful material that mimics the touch, feel and age of leather without the cruelty. It does this without the use of plastic, a material that has been a constant in vegan leather but is so bad for the planet,” she said in an interview.
Whether you’re a bride, groom or wedding attendee, shop from Anita Dongre’s latest and classic collections at the Khush Wedding Show. Scheduled on April 13, 2025 at the iconic Old Sessions House in London, the extravaganza is poised to be a one-stop shop for all your occasion wear needs.
