My Amalfi love story begins in London, with a direct flight to Naples and the promise of that Italian magic waiting at the other end. The 2.5-hour flight is the easy part. Then came the drive, when the landscape slowly started to show off. The road winds along the coast, revealing flashes of cobalt-blue water, dramatic cliffs, pastel-hued villages and lemon groves clinging improbably to the mountainside. This isn’t my first time here, but somehow, the coast has managed to make me fall in love with it all over again. Then I turn towards the cliffside and spot my hotel: perched 80 metres above the Gulf of Salerno, seemingly carved into the rock itself, with the Mediterranean stretching endlessly beyond it. And instantly, I know I’ve chosen well.
The Amalfi Coast has no shortage of gorgeous hotels, but Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel was my obvious pick. How could it not be? A genuine 13th-century Capuchin convent, it combines Amalfi’s oldest cloister, a historic chapel, photo-worthy terraced lemon groves and knockout sea views with the polished comforts of a contemporary luxury retreat. It is the sort of property where history is not its “background” but very much part of the experience.
A convent, but make it chic
The story begins in 1213, when Cardinal Pietro Capuano, together with his uncle, the Archbishop of Amalfi, founded a monastery on this sacred cliffside site. Eight Cistercian monks from the Abbey of Fossanova arrived that same year, establishing a community devoted to prayer, contemplation and hospitality. In the second half of the 16th-century, the Capuchin friars took over the abandoned complex, breathing new life into it and shaping many of the architectural elements that remain today. Following the suppression of the religious orders in the 19th-century, the property gradually began its transformation into a hotel, with the Vozzi family playing an important role in preserving its architectural integrity and monastic character. Its chef is said to have created cannelloni here in 1924, and the property went on to welcome and inspire generations of artists, writers and travellers. Following an extensive renovation, the property entered a new chapter in 2023 as Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel, preserving its centuries-old character while embracing a new era of hospitality.
As I wander through it, I notice how cleverly the renovation walks the line between reverence and refinement. The original Arab-Norman cloister arches become a recurring design motif. The vaulted ceilings, tiled floors, lime-washed walls, the Baroque church’s marble altar and Majolica flooring have been preserved. Against them sit soft neutral tones, natural fibres, leather, wrought iron, sculptural furniture, local artwork and contemporary comforts. I love that the interiors aren’t overwhelming because the building already has the gravitas.
Rooms with a serious sense of place
The 52 rooms and suites retain the allure of their former monk’s quarters, but thankfully the modern interpretation involves considerably contemporary comforts. I find bright, neutral interiors, elegant contemporary furniture, original architectural details and the best sea views. The suites take the experience up a notch, with individual layouts ranging from cloister-facing spaces to private terraces with Jacuzzis and even a suite tucked into the lemon grove. The Dei Cappuccini Sea View Suite occupies the historic refectory and the Suite dell’Eremita is built into the cliffs for an especially secluded escape.
My room: the terrace steals the show
I stay in the Junior Sea View Terrace Suite with Jacuzzi, and my favourite part is not even inside the suite. It is the terrace. At 75sqmt, the suite gives me generous indoor and outdoor living, a king bed, walk-in wardrobe, marble bathroom, separate tub and rain shower, and, of course, my own Jacuzzi.
But it is that terrace, suspended above the Amalfi Coast, that makes me stay longer. I can step outside, sink into the Jacuzzi and watch the Tyrrhenian Sea change colour as the day slips towards sunset. This was the sort of suite that made me skip sightseeing schedules.
The food has a story too
Dining here runs on two registers. Dei Cappuccini, the fine-dining restaurant led by Chef Claudio Lanuto, offers ‘A Journey Along the Amalfi Coast’, a dedicated tasting menu celebrating the flavours and culinary traditions of the region. La Locanda della Canonica, cliffside and more relaxed, serves pizza, grilled seafood and the historic cannelloni first created at the Convento, all beneath a pergola.
Dei Cappuccini Bar pours a Golden Negroni made with Gin del Convento, distilled exclusively for the property.
The spa where the convent gets zen
If there is one reason to cancel your excursions, it is the Anantara Spa. Set over 125sqmt within the convent’s cool stone rooms, it houses a hammam, an emotional shower and two couple’s suites with sauna and steam room, all scented with lemon and citrus. Signature treatments include the Convento di Amalfi Journey, a scrub followed by lemon aromatherapy massage, using locally rooted La Selva di Positano. There is also a partnership with British skincare brand ELEMIS, whose treatments include salt scrubs, frangipani wraps and Renew, Reveal and Define facials.
I even took wellness beyond the treatment room through yoga in the cloister, breathwork and sound healing in the chapel and workouts in the panoramic outdoor gym above the historic Walk of the Monks.
The panoramic pool, perched above the sea, offered an irresistible spot to cool off, while taking in sweeping views of the Amalfi coastline.
This is luxury with a pulse
What stays with me most is the way Anantara makes the convent feel alive. I can ring the ancient Mulattiera Bell on arrival before being led to a lemon-filled welcome drink overlooking the sea. At 7.15pm, the Convent Bell marks the end of the day with music, drinks and a ritual rooted in monastic tradition. At Anantara Convento di Amalfi, guests can enjoy a selection of signature experiences, including pizza and cannelloni-making classes, guided explorations of the convent gardens with Friar Marcus, or dining beneath the historic 13th-century cloister. And that is my reason for falling for this place. The views are astonishing and the service is warm and attentive with that signature Anantara ease.
For more information:
Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel
www.Anantara.com
