There’s one main factor why Pakistani couture is thriving on a global map today: the native brands and couturiers’ ability to retain their rich craft heritage, while pushing the design envelope. The South Asian country has a diverse talent pool, from veterans to up-and-coming names, which is capable of catering to varied prerequisites, preferences and personalities. By harnessing their indigenous heritage with a global outlook, they are captivating style enthusiasts and purists with their unique culturally-blended styles. Apart from pulling in top billing for personal wardrobes, they are raking in prime real estate on red carpets across the world, with celebrities having their favourite numbers flown in for key appearances. From Sonam Kapoor Ahuja to Janhvi Kapoor, several Pakistani designers have found fans in seasoned fashion icons and young starlets alike.
While you may be acquainted with names like Faraz Manan and Shehla Chatoor, a plethora of the eminent and emerging creatives from Pakistan and its diaspora are breaking the boundaries and borders of wedding wear. If you’d like to widen your net for your big day, here is your guide to crossover couture for all your trousseau needs. Whether you’re looking for an OTT lehenga or a minimalistic sharara, their collections weave traditional and modern; the past and present with every single outfit.
Élan
It is impossible to talk about Pakistan’s most prolific couturiers without Élan in the list. With silhouettes that give traditional bridal wear a contemporary update, Élan is coveted by celebrities and brides at home and away. “Our signature aesthetic has always centred on a very complementary silhouette with embellishments that enhance rather than overpower. An impeccable cut and use of pure rich fabric forms the foundation of a signature Élan bridal. Hence, our bride is one who admires craftsmanship married to the quintessential wow factor. She is also one ready to embrace new ideas and hues. When she makes her entrance, it is always a defining moment,” says Khadijah Shah, the founder and creative head at Élan.
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Comprising ornate lehengas, ghararas and gowns, every bridal collection from Élan is a celebration of colour and craft. “It is characterised by an ethereal look comprised of gossamer fabrics and delicate yet intricately arranged motifs, on a background of pastel shades of blush, lilac and turquoise. The techniques used are a mix of the old and new. The overall effect is of opulence and romance,” reveals Khadijah Shah.
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“The colours will be traditional for the wedding day and modern glittery pastels for the reception. The silhouettes will be voluminous and reflecting a royal era of opulent celebrations. Reception or Valima dresses will be gown like and leaner with a sharper silhouette,” suggests Shah.
Shehla Chatoor
A reverence for rich textiles married with intricate details, time-honoured techniques and contemporary silhouettes, Shehla Chatoor’s work speaks a language of its own. “Our quintessentially sophisticated and feminine signature is about timeless elegance juxtaposed with modern romance. The Shehla Chatoor bride is confident, self-aware, feminine, graceful, ethereally elegant and classic. She has an artistic eye for luxurious and intricate detail and wants to make a lasting impression with her bridal sartorial choice,” Chatoor reveals.
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“Our new luxe bridal collection, Behist is stunning due to its breathtaking details. From contemporary draped anarkalis to traditional lehenga cholis to saris and classic ghararas, it has something for everyone. The colour spectrum ranges from buttery ivories, enchanting corals, alluring blushes with splashes of metallics and glistening reds, all offset with magical ‘ganga jamni’ signature SC ‘zardozi’ work,” shares Chatoor.
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“Since eons, Pakistani brides have opted for a beautifully detailed long shirt with a lehenga or a traditional flared gharara. Classic red has been the popular colour worn, but over the years brides have opened up to more subtle shades. This is why at Shehla Chatoor, we indulge in ethereal palettes of salmon pinks, silver-greys, aqua-mints and rose gold with contrasting accents so our brides can experience the traditional with a touch of contemporary.”
Rashmi Kumari
The ethos behind the Rashmi Kumari label is to perfect an always-flattering, timeless aesthetic that caters to glamorous women, whatever their shape and size. “My first collection is constructed using sheer chiffons, luxe silks and stunning velvets in a gorgeous palette. We’ve aimed to highlight organic but nascent subcontinental capabilities—unsung women artisans whose creations are as romantic as their stories are,” she says. She is renowned for serenading the audiences with romantic crafts and lightweight fabrics, all brought to life for the new-age bride and her tribe.
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“Rashmi Kumari’s latest collection Alina is a testament to the rich heritage and skilled craftsmanship of the subcontinent. Inspired by the timeless beauty of handwork and a desire to revive traditional techniques, we present garments that celebrate the creativity and talent of women artisans. With meticulous mastery of embroidery, weaving, and embellishment, each piece exudes timeless elegance while telling a unique story of heritage and resilience.”
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Rashmi doesn’t advocate trends or particular looks. Instead, she says, “Bridal wear should celebrate the bride and her style. But I do feel a wedding outfit should be timeless. Go for classic silhouettes and shades. When it comes for other functions, don’t shy away from experimenting. However, don’t compromise on comfort and quality.”
Fahad Hussayn
Fahad Hussayn’s couture is for the forward-thinking customer. It always has been. While he’s garnered acclaim for his custom creations, he takes most pride in “taking up heirloom pieces and recreating them. A Fahad Hussayn bride is a confident woman, whether she’s in a hijab or chooses to dress otherwise. She looks for good quality of work and something long-lasting. I love that my brides come to me for the intricacy of the job rather than a façade of it,” Fahad tells me.
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“For my new wedding essentials collection Gharoli, I have worked with classic lines and a lot of architectural details. There’s going to be a lot bridal hungama—a curated tange featuring eight different looks. You’ll findbeautiful subtle pastels paired with signature Fahad Hussayn multicolour thread work, the intricate zardozi and industrialised embroideries. As always, my fabrics are pure— silks, chiffons and tulles.”
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Hussayn feels 2021 wedding celebrations will continue to be intimate yet lavish. And when it comes to bridal wear, the couturier doesn’t believe in following trends. “I want my brides to invest in sustainable things. I follow just one rule: close to heart, close to home clothes. I would encourage you not to do much with classic lehenga or gharara. But for novelty, you can try varied cuts like a shrug or pants.”
Sania Maskatiya
Sania Maskatiya’s approach to couture is geared towards heritage and high fashion. Fuss-free yet embellished, there’s something charming about her aesthetic. “I believe in modern cuts but with traditional embellishments. The true beauty of a bridal dress lies within the harmony of colours and embellishments. A Saniya Maskatiya bride elegantly and effortlessly equipoises the traditional and the modern. She envelopes herself with grace and charming confidence to create a perfect regal affair,” the designer shares.
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“Our bridal and formals collections this year, encapsulate the romanticism of subcontinental heritage and contemporary grandeur. Reyna Velvets 2024 is a rich capsule collection celebrating the plush tones, complemented by the elegant drapery of cascading silhouettes and intricate embroidered embellishments. Then there’s Selah Luxe—our latest collection where artisanal embroideries and timeless prints meet effortless design, masterfully merging elegance with nonchalance.”
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“Intricate embroideries, hand-painted and vintage revival prints, artful lehengas, and long and flowy silhouettes are the rage this season. Contemporary is the roaring theme we’ve seen in the recent bridal collections. We are headed towards a departure to use traditional embellishments and fabrics to create modern designs. For sangeet, I recommend a tulle kalidaar. A jamawar zardoze work choli with lehenga is apt for a pre-wedding celebration. Turn to intricately embellished peshwas for the nikaah.”
Ali Xeeshan
With an incredible journey that spans from Multan to Milan, you can count on Ali Xeeshan to blend local artisanal know-how with an international outlook. “Ali Xeeshan bride is the main lead and not a background dancer. She’s a girl who wants to stand out, who wants to enjoy her moment and is excited about life,” he shares. For the new-age bride, Xeeshan harnesses “something new, something old, something branded, something borrowed.”
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This season, the designer has given a bold, beautiful and unapologetically haute spin to bridal couture. “Our Bridal Couture ‘24 collection revolutionises wedding fashion with a masterful fusion of sartorial splendour and exquisite refinement. Our luxury pret line ‘Surkhab’ has the same Ali Xeeshan stamp, but it isn’t too heavy. That said, every creation is super festive and punchier. I have gone with a vibrant palette because what better way to add cheer to celebrations than colour?”
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“I want brides to personalise their look, even if it means wearing a conventional outfit and turning it around with a unique veil. For pre-wedding festivities, opt for a weightless printed skirt with a button- down shirt. My cardinal rule for the big day outfit is: You get married once, so wear whatever makes you happy. I would pick a classic look like a lehenga choli with a veil and pair it with all the jewellery you can.”
Tabya
Inspired by Pakistan’s reserves of rich craft tradition, Tabia Khan’s handcrafted creations have catapulted into coveted must- haves for brides across the globe. Speaking of the Tabya muse, Khan shares, “When we picture a bride, we think of a royal woman who will wear a timeless silhouette but add her like a farshi lehenga with a beautiful long shirt on her big day. Someone who prizes classic craftsmanship techniques. Call her a traditional modern-day princess.”
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Tabya’s latest bridal line-up borrows from Wazir Khan Mosque, a 17-century mausoleum in Lahore. “We took influences from its architecture and tilework and converted them into motifs. We have played with a lot of layering techniques and used lightweight fabrics like tulle and organza to give timeless pieces a modern appeal. We have swapped traditional reds with ruby versions and infused it with our signature gota work and also dabka work.”
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“Brides are leaning towards pure fabrics and flowy silhouettes. But when it comes to weddings, whether intimate or larger-than-life, they do not want to compromise on their outfit. Brides are also incorporating an heirloom piece to their look. For instance, style their mother’s bridal dupatta or jewellery to their ensemble,” Khan says. For sangeet, she recommends a jewel-toned comfortable lehenga. Red is her go- to for rukhsati and a white chikankari pishwas or lehenga for nikaah.
Lajwanti
At Lajwanti, every garment tells a story, crafted by passionate third generation artisans who invest nearly 800 hours into each bridal ensemble. Lajwanti employs over 26 embroidery techniques that date back centuries, to preserve dying arts. “Our signature aesthetic is where traditional charm is interlinked with present day style, personifying underrated subcontinental allure. The Lajwanti bride is a powerful, modern day woman who is an embodiment of old-world glamour, ornamented to the rim with a promise to stay true to the aura of the pre-partition classical period,” reveals Ana Ali, the CEO of Lajwanti.
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Lajwanti has infused a youthful flair to their wide array of designs this season with their Delam collection. “You’ll see statement garments that command attention for our millennial and Gen Z brides. We have reimagined traditional couture with vibrant hues, moderns designs and contemporary embellishments that are in keeping with their global lifestyle. But there’s the same opulence and grandeur that Lajwanti is known for,” Ana says.
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“From the refreshing hues of clementine orange and arctic blues to the robust shades of sherbet pink and venetian red, Delam offers statement pieces for the most affluent occasions. The silhouettes range from lehengas and peshwaz, to sharara sets and formal wear for the 2024 bride and her tribe.”
Faraz Manan
The signature crystal embellishments should be the first clue that you are about to witness a couture concoction from Faraz Manan. “Classic and glamorous yet slightly understated and experimental,” the couturier says about his trademarks. He is renowned for KiraKira-friendly pieces that have found favour with the likes of Alia Bhatt, Janhvi Kapoor and many A-listers. “My forte lies in clever detailing of thread work, delicate embellishments, layering, cut, colour and fusion tailoring.”
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This season, Faraz Manan presents a variety of classic silhouettes along with knee- and floor-length jackets and capes. Embellished pearl and crystal work belts are added for that extra punch, paired with some Western flair to create balance. The palette ranges from metallics to pastels.
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Off-shoulders still reign supreme. Pastels are always elegant, so there’s going to be a lot of ice blues, nude pinks and blush.
