Love knows no boundaries across geographies, genders, cultures, ideologies and lifestyles. And nor does creativity. It’s why a kaleidoscope of designers from the LGBTQIA+ community have used fashion as an expression of their identity and a medium to own their agency. Unfortunately, back in the day, several veteran designers, such as Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior, stayed closeted due to societal pressures of the era in which they lived in. But today, we live in a more inclusive world, where many A-list designers are out and proud about their sexuality and creativity.
In India, too, there are a number of designers from the queer community who are at the helm of some of the biggest design houses. They are creatives who are breaking traditional gender roles and glass ceilings with their modern outlook, exquisite collections, and LGBTQIA+ Pride. To honour and celebrate the community, we have rounded up six wedding wear designers who use their platform to propel inclusivity and Pride for couples everywhere.
Gaurav Gupta
After pursuing a degree in fashion from the prestigious National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi, Gaurav secured a degree from Central Saint Martins in London. Despite dealing with the stigma and trauma that came attached being a homosexual boy in the ’90s, he launched his eponymous label in 2004.
His mission was simple: he wanted to create fashion with the intention of appealing to anyone, no matter their identity, background, or style. Today, Gaurav has garnered goodwill and acclaim for his couture that looks like wearable art. Every piece he designs feature sculptural details, avant-garde elements, fluid fabrics, and his indelible vision that is futuristic.
Rohit Bal
In November 2024, when veteran designer Rohit Bal passed away, the entire fashion world mourned. The couturier from Kashmiri heritage was one of India’s most revered and respected designers. He launched his maiden collection in 1990 and went on to become one of the founding members of Fashion Design Council of India.
His stellar construction keeping patrons of all styles, sexualities and bodies in mind, exquisite craftsmanship, and unique fusion of blending traditional techniques with modern aesthetics rightfully earned him the title of India’s “Master of fabric and fantasy”. His work with Khadi Gram Udyog, the country’s largest handloom textile operation, further strengthened his reputation as a designer deeply rooted in Indian heritage.
Amit Aggarwal
Based in New Delhi and hailing from an orthodox family, Amit Aggarwal came out to his parents when he was 30. But to his surprise, the news was very well-received by his father. Today, he considers his family to be his biggest support system and anchor. He went on to launch his namesake label in 2012. From his hybrid sari-gowns to avant-garde lehengas, he has redefined Indian couture with his futuristic vision that blurs the boundaries of classic and contemporary.
With innovative fabrics, elegant detailing, linear lines, and contoured silhouettes, his pieces are ideal for the bride and groom who wants to tell their story their way on their big day. Whether his bridal couture or sharp menswear, he explains that his brand is for anyone and everyone.
Suneet Varma
If maximalist Indian couture could be ascribed to a designer, no one would fit the bill better than Suneet Varma. Suneet launched his couture collection in 1989 after his apprenticeship with Yves Saint Laurent in Paris. Today, fashion, for him, is more than fabric and form—it is emotive, inclusive, theatrical, and unapologetically glamorous.
Fishtails, frills and feathers, filigreed embroidery, and fantastical silhouettes often describe his design vocabulary, whether he is designing a bridal lehenga, gown or sari. It’s no wonder then that his patronage extends ages, stages, genders and identities.
Bobo Calcutta
A multi-disciplinary artist, Ayushman Mitra, commonly referred to as Bobo, explores themes of liberation, love and sexuality through his art and fashion. He has honed a distinct design vocabulary by reimagining the scopes of classic Indian silhouettes with his robust use of colours and bespoke prints. The queer designer calls himself a romantic who draws from his experiences, not addressed for a gender or age bracket.
His Split Faces In A Liplock is a motif that has taken centre stage in his work—an artist symbol of his inclusive ideology. It stands of acceptance of one’s own self before seeking it from others, he shares.
Siddartha Tytler
After graduating from St. Columba’s in 1997, Siddartha spent a year at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi where he studied Fashion Design and Clothing Technology (FDCT). From there, the designer moved on to the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York. He claims to often find beauty in the macabre to create some of his most exquisite collections. A seamless blend of opulent craftsmanship techniques, rich textiles, superb construction, unabashed glamour and an inclusive vision defines his body of work.
Be it his womenswear, menswear or gender-neutral pieces, he says his pieces are not meant for a certain world—everyone’s invited.